Burnout

Here’s A Step-By-Step Breakdown Of How To Do A Burnout With A Manual

This may not be as essential a skill as knowing how to drive a stick shift, but it’s close.

It’s hard to find a muscle car lover out there that isn't a fan of the Ford Mustang’s Line Lock feature. That’s because the system allows any newbie with a happy throttle and some tire money to blow a chance to formulate some clouds courtesy of vaporized rear wheels and the engine's labor. The problem is that the Mustang makes it too easy, even with a manual that requires dumping the clutch prior to roasting, which denies its drivers the chance to do a burnout the old fashioned way.

Thanks to Engineering Explained, there’s no need to stay in the dark. Jason Fenske once again uses his sacrificial Honda and its rear tires to show us how to properly pull off a burnout in a rear-wheel drive manual vehicle. Unlike in an automatic car, you can’t press the brake and mash the throttle to achieve the desired effect.

The crucial difference is that in a manual, keeping engine RPM too low or pressing the brakes too hard is a recipe for either a burnt clutch, a stalled engine, or both. The key, after disabling traction control of course, is brake modulation and high engine RPMs. With the clutch in and throttle pressed, dump the clutch and immediately press the brake. From here, the trick is to not press the brake too hard as to stall the engine or burn the clutch but also to press firmly enough to keep the car from accelerating forward. Next is modulating the throttle, which can usually be left high in the rev range. We wish you happy burnouts and apologize in advance to your rear tires.

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